Winter Car Prep
for Hood River Drivers

Snow Tires (or Real All-Weather Tires)

This is the single biggest winter-driving safety upgrade you can make. All-season tires are a compromise — fine in mild conditions, dangerous in snow and ice. Real snow tires (or modern severe-snow-rated all-weather tires like Nokian, Michelin CrossClimate, or Bridgestone WeatherPeak) make the difference between making it home and ending up in a ditch.

If you commute over Mt. Hood, drive Highway 35 to Parkdale, or head up to Cooper Spur, get dedicated snow tires on a second set of wheels. Swap them on for the season. The investment pays for itself in tire life (the snows save your summers and vice versa) and dramatically reduces winter risk.

Cooling System Check

Antifreeze is what keeps your engine from freezing in cold weather and overheating in summer. If your coolant is the wrong concentration, looks rusty, or hasn't been changed in years — flush it. We can test the freeze point and condition. Most coolant should be flushed every 30,000-50,000 miles depending on the type.

Also have us check the radiator cap, hoses, and water pump. A failure mid-winter when temps are well below freezing is much worse than a failure in July.

Battery Test

Cold weather is the enemy of weak batteries. A battery that started fine in October might leave you stranded in January at 15°F. We can load-test your battery and tell you the actual condition. Plan to replace any battery older than 4-5 years before winter, especially if you have any signs of weakness.

Brakes (Especially for the Gorge)

Coming down off Mt. Hood or descending into Cascade Locks puts continuous load on brakes. Heat from continuous downhill braking warps rotors and glazes pads — but in winter conditions, you also need maximum stopping power on slick surfaces.

Have us inspect pad thickness and rotor condition before winter. If you're more than 50% worn, plan to replace before the snow flies. Don't wait until you need to stop on ice with marginal pads.

Heater & Defrosters

A bad heater core or stuck blend door means cold cabin and fogged windshield — both safety issues. Test your heater on the first cold day. If it's blowing cool air or only warming on one side, get it diagnosed.

Same for the rear defrost (the lines on the back window) — make sure it actually works. New wipers and topped-off washer fluid (with winter-grade anti-freeze formula) round out visibility prep.

Tire Pressure Check

Tire pressure drops about 1 psi for every 10°F drop in temperature. Tires that were perfect at 70°F are noticeably underinflated at 20°F. Check pressures monthly through winter and adjust to the door-jamb spec.

Wiper Blades

Dry summer wipers are tolerable; smearing wipers in a winter snowstorm at 60 mph on I-84 are dangerous. New blades cost $20-40 a pair. Don't put it off.

Emergency Kit

Throw a winter kit in the back of your vehicle:

• Blanket or sleeping bag
• Phone charger
• Flashlight
• Small shovel
• Bag of sand or kitty litter (for traction if stuck)
• Jumper cables or jump pack
• Granola bars and water
• Hand warmers
• Tow strap

Oil Change with Cold-Weather Oil

If your manufacturer specifies a different cold-weather oil viscosity (e.g., 5W-30 vs 10W-40), use the cold spec for winter. Modern engines mostly use multi-viscosity synthetics that work in both, but it's worth checking your manual.

4WD/AWD System Check

If you have 4WD, actually engage it occasionally during summer to keep everything moving. If your transfer case is full of old fluid, change it. If you have a Subaru with worn or mismatched tires, get matched tires before AWD damage occurs.

Get the Pre-Winter Inspection

We do pre-winter inspections in October and November — covers everything above plus a full underbody check for rust and worn components. About 60-90 minutes, $95-145, gives you peace of mind before the storms hit. Call us at (541) 386-0944 to schedule.